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By Collin Piprell
Ominous black thunderheads stand piled up high overhead, soft explosions
of lightning deep within. Tucked away in among the hills, here on
Phuket, newly planted rice paddies glow an improbably vivid green
in the darkening calm before the storm. Tall palms sway in anticipation
of the downpour to come, its arrival heralded by sudden hard gusts
of wind. Enormous stands of bamboo rattle quick tattoos against
one another and banana plants flap their fronds in dishevelled alarm
just before the skies, with a crack of thunder, finally split open.
For an hour and more the rain comes down in torrents, all but erasing
the island from view. Then it tapers to a drizzle, the winds easing
to a fresh breeze. Finally it stops, and the sun finds its way through
a hole in the clouds to flash on irrigation ditches full to overflowing,
on temple roofs scaled in bright orange and green, on palm fronds
wet from the rain and brilliant against the torn black remnants
of the monsoon storm.
Like polished pebbles and seashells along the seashore, Phuket
reveals its richest spectrum of tones and colours when washed by
the rains. On this island, just as in the rest of Southeast Asia,
the coming of the southwest monsoon has traditionally been cause
for celebration. This is a time of renewal, when the rains bring
forth new life and security for another year, when the land turns
so green it is a feast for both eye and soul. And, in times past,
the inhabitants of Phuket celebrated the approach of the southwest
monsoon not only for its cooling, life-giving rains but also because
its first winds arrived bearing the junks and the dhows of traders
from India and Arabia.
Nowadays, however, local people often have more cause to celebrate
the end of this season, looking forward instead to a northeast
monsoon which comes bearing planeloads of tourists. This is because
the west coast is scalloped by the island's most popular beaches
-- beaches such as Patong, Kata, Karon, and Nai Harn -- and exposure
to the southwest monsoon means that small boats are threatened by
sudden squalls and heavy seas.
Sailing, then, on the exposed west coast is often ill-advised.
Diving also can be spoiled by the unpredictability of the seas.
Swimming may some days be unpleasant or dangerous, as well, with
big waves rolling in unchecked all the way across the Indian Ocean
to pound up on the beaches.
And the southwest monsoon, especially from June onwards, brings
the rainy season. It isn't as though every day sees rain, however.
You can still enjoy a fair share of fine skies and moderate seas.
Just as the local fishermen do, simply assess conditions carefully
before setting out; there's no reason the southwest monsoon should
interfere with a good vacation.
Diving daytrips to destinations
such as Koh Racha and Koh Phi Phi are still on. There are even live-aboard
dive cruises to the Similan Islands and Trang, given favourable
weather reports; it's just that they can't be scheduled with confidence
much in advance.
Cruising yachts and day tours from Phuket find sheltered waters
for sailing in Phang Nga
Bay, surely one of the most memorable natural sights anywhere in
the world, where the sea is protected from both northeast and southwest
monsoon.
Another way to enjoy Phang Nga Bay is to try "sea-canoeing".
Hidden worlds of flora and fauna within some of the islands -- the
hong, as they are known to locals -- are accessible only
through sea caves at low tide. This is an unforgettable adventure;
and, according to the operators of Phuket-based Sea Canoe Thailand,
the sense of primordial mystery experienced in the hongs
is often even enhanced, given the weather at this time of year.
Gamefishermen are in
luck during the tourist low season. The sailfish are practically
queuing up to take the hook. And that is not much of an exaggeration
-- you often find numbers of them jumping while you're trolling,
effectively keeping your appetite for action well whetted. True,
at this time of year you may occasionally need a good stomach if
you're out on a small boat. But the threat of squalls or high seas
needn't be a problem, since the boats can fish in the lee of islands
such as Koh Racha Yai, which is where the sailfish are generally
feeding in any case. Two- and three-day trips, even all the way
down to Koh Rok Nok in the south, are still possible in the southwest
monsoon. Another advantage: because of how Phuket's mountains influence
local weather patterns, it can be raining buckets on the island
while out on the boat everybody's getting a suntan. So, with any
luck at all, you may get both fine weather and lots of sailfish
right in the middle of the southwest monsoon.
This season is also the only time surfing makes sense on Phuket.
Water-skiing, on the other hand, is possible year-round, now that
a cable water-ski operation is up and running in Kathu, between
Phuket Town and Patong Beach.
Even on off days for sea sports there's plenty to do. The Blue
Canyon Golf Club, which hosted the Johnnie Walker Black Label Classic
tournament, a few years ago, and the Honda Invitational more recently,
provides a course of the highest international standard. The Phuket
Golf and Country Club, Banyan
Tree Club, and Century Club also offer year-round golfing in
splendid surroundings.
This might also be a good time to explore the interior of the island.
Most of the original jungle has gone the way of the tiger. Mining,
agriculture and, most recently, tourism have seen to the gradual
destruction of the natural habitat. By now, only about seven percent
of the land area is covered with natural forest. The greatest part
of that is found in Phuket's Khao Phra Thaeo National Park,
where picturesque waterfalls, granite outcrops, gibbons and birds
in a setting largely unchanged for millennia give the visitor some
idea of what Phuket must have been like in times past.
Phuket is also the base for jungle trekking excursions to the neighbouring
mainland. Again, at this time of year the forests are greener, the
rivers higher for canoeing or rafting, and the waterfalls are more
spectacular. (The terrestrial leeches are also out in force, mind
you; but this is only a minor nuisance, since they may be removed
by applying anything from suntan oil or insect repellent to a lighted
cigarette. Try soaking your socks in insect repellent or tobacco
water before setting out.)
Tennis and horseback riding are readily available year-round on
Phuket. In one instance, riding stables stand right next door to
a well equipped shooting range. If those pursuits seem too
tame, try go-kart racing or bungy jumping. Taking the big dive has
never been so enjoyable as at Jungle
Bungy Jump, between Phuket Town and Patong Beach, where you
can also have a meal and a drink in scenic surroundings, the restaurant
and bar overlooking a pond over which looms the 53m bungee tower.
They also operate a "catapult bungee" in Patong, just
outside the Expat Hotel.
Of course all the fun isn't to be found out-of-doors. Fine restaurants,
bars and discos abound, especially on Patong Beach.
And that's not all. Aside from the gamefishing and surfing and
so on, the off season has other advantages. The weather is cooler,
for one thing. There are fewer people around, as well, with correspondingly
less pressure on accommodation and transportation.
The two monsoons, then, bring different moods to Phuket. In fact,
however, in terms of enjoyment at hand there is no such thing as
a low season on Phuket.
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