Over
the past several years, Koh Phi Phi (pronounced pee pee)
has grown from a peaceful little Muslim fishing-village to one
of the busiest international tourist destinations in the country.
It now boasts of at least 10 diving centres, several expensive
international hotels, and a variety of cheaper bungalows and guest
houses. Literally thousands of people visit it daily.
Located about 45 kilometres east of Phuket, the Phi Phi Island
group -- precisely part of Krabi province -- is composed of the
islands Koh Phi Phi Don, Koh Phi Phi Lae (Phi Phi of the sea),
Koh Yung (Mosquito Island), and Koh Mai Pai (Bamboo Island). Although
the scuba diving is generally not considered to be at world-class
level -- depending on your definition -- Koh Phi Phi offers the
keen diver a wide range of diving possibilities and occasionally
some absolutely fantastic diving. It is a delightful place to
spend a few days relaxing on its exquisite beaches, exploring
its numerous coves and bays, climbing its steep vertical peaks,
and enjoying some colourful and enticing scuba diving.
What sets Koh Phi Phi apart from other dive destinations in Thailand
is two features: The first is the amazing limestone cliffs rising
dramatically out of the sea and plunging equally dramatically
straight down underwater. The second is the remarkable variety
of dive sites that are concentrated in such a small area.
Nature
has created the limestone rock formations and islands which are
Koh Phi Phi that have become known the world over as one of the
most stunning settings in Southeast Asia. These cliffs soar over
500 meters in some areas and beautiful green trees and bushes
grow on the tops and sides of these cliffs. Swimming in a protected
little cove at the base of one of these steep cliffs conjures
up visions of an unearthly paradise, and no matter how popular
Koh Phi Phi becomes the stunning scenery will always create the
feeling that no one has been here before you.
Underwater, these towers shape a rugged, interesting environment
for scuba divers, and over time the elements have created caves,
overhangs, and swim-throughs in this soft rock. Some caves penetrate
the rock as much as 100 meters or more which make for exciting
dives-if they are well planned and carried out under the supervision
of a professional diver.
Other types of environments include vertical walls that plunge
from the surface to over 25 meters. On these walls grow a profusion
of soft corals, large orange-colored fans, black coral and long
stringy sea whips. Several types of unusual coral trees grow in
the waters surrounding Koh Phi Phi, including a white coral bush
that looks like a frocked Christmas tree-covered with ornament-like
growth in the form of oysters and colourful crinoids.
In many places, the islands are fringed with hard-coral gardens,
home to a wide assortment of resplendent tropical creatures. Most
of the coral is healthy, although in the more popular shallow
areas coral damage has occurred due to unscrupulous boat operators
dropping anchor. However, in most areas coral growth and fish
life is plentiful and most, but not all of the same fish species
that live in the Similans can be found around Koh Phi Phi as well.
One
of the most popular dive sites in the group is located at the
southern tip of the tiny island of Koh Bida Nok. The dive normally
begins in a shallow bay on the eastern side of the islet. Upon
descending to about 10 meters of water, you'll find vast healthy
growths of stag horn and star corals and incredible numbers of
anemones and anemone fish. In fact this is one of the best places
in Thailand to observe the rare and uncommonly aggressive little
saddle anemone fish (Amphiprion ephippium). Observe carefully
as they will make a harmless attempt to bite the unwary diver.
Because of their aggressiveness, these fish are easier to photograph
than their more common cousins the clown fish (Amphiprion percula)
since they are constantly trying to bite your camera.
Continuing south on your dive, you'll reach a vertical wall that
is exhilarating to sail over and continue your decent headfirst.
You'll reach sand at about 22 meters, but there is a gorgeous
little bommie off the wall, ending at almost 27 meters, that is
usually covered with thousands of glass fish, large sea fans,
and pink and purple soft corals. Swimming west along the wall,
the terrain becomes less vertical and schools of blue-striped
snappers (Lutjanus Kasmira) seek safety in numbers along
the rocky bottom. Octopuses are repeatedly found here if you look
carefully in the numerous nooks and crannies, and large green
moray eels are almost surely spotted. Towards the end of the dive,
you'll find a small cavern in the rock that makes a sharp right-turn
just past the entrance. This cavern is a great place to spend
a few minutes of your safety stop since the light filtering through
holes close to the surface creates lovely patterns on the sandy
bottom. Just be sure to leave the shallow cavern with at least
30 bar in you tank to avoid a messy out-of-air situation.
One of the least known-and one of the best dive sites in the
group-is located just north of Phi Phi Don near Laem Thong (Golden
Point) off a breathtaking island called Koh Yung (Mosquito Island).
Although popular with snorkelers, most dive centres do not dive
here due to the distance from Ton Sai Bay where most of the dive
companies are located. Although there are several dive sites around
the Koh Yung, the most fascinating is an underwater pinnacle near
the northeast point. Hin Jom (sunken rock) begins about 2 meters
below the surface and continues down to over 27 meters, making
it one of the deeper dives on the island. Leopard sharks and sting
rays are common here, and the schools of fish that feed around
the rock are more abundant than at any other diving site in Phi
Phi. Also, cobia fish -- which are very similar in appearance
to a shark -- are sighted on many of the dives.
The
most unusual aspect of the pinnacle is the presence of a unique
type of sea fan that has black branches and pure-white polyps.
These trees grow to over two meters in height and appear similar
to frocked Christmas trees. Adding a few ornaments in the form
of feather stars and oysters makes the holiday scene complete.
Other than that, it is one of the best sites on the island for
pelagic and other schooling fish. Jacks, barracuda, and fusiliers
swirl around the rock. As most divers know, it is difficult to
match the underwater excitement of schooling pelagic fish.
The most common type of transportation available in Koh Phi Phi
remains the versatile long-tail boat. For hire practically everywhere,
these taxis will take you-for a modest fee-to any of the scenic
areas around the islands. Many dive operators use these boats
for diving trips and they are quite comfortable to dive from if
you listed carefully to the pre-dive briefing. If nothing else,
it is a cultural experience to spend the day watching your Thai
captain (who usually does not speak much English, nor does he
normally know how to swim) ply the waters of Koh Phi Phi expertly
manhandling his long-tail boat.
Koh Phi Phi is one of the most dramatically beautiful islands
in the world and the diving ranks among the best in Southeast
Asia. Although visibility is often limited, averaging 5-20
meters, the amount of marine life under the calm waters
of Koh Phi Phi should keep all but the most seasoned diver
entertained for a number of days. The agreeable diving,
along with beautiful beaches, fun exploratory cruises, and
an easygoing way of life, will continue to make Koh Phi
Phi one of Thailand's most popular destinations for years
to come. (click
here to see available dive trips)
