In
the early 1990s, several dive operators out of Phuket, looking
for new diving frontiers in the Andaman Sea, began exploring an
area 90 nautical miles northwest of the Similan Islands that came
to be known as the Burma Banks. In a very short time, the Banks
became recognised as the place for serious divers to observe sharks
close-up and personal - something lacking in Thailand.
Even though the Banks lie in international waters, by the middle
of the decade, the Myanmar (Burmese) authorities became aware
and concerned about the activity off their coastline and asked
the dive operators to seek official permission from the government
to dive there. After three years of negotiations, in 1997 consent
was officially given to not only visit the now famous Burma Banks,
but also the islands in Myanmar's inshore waters. As we approach
the millennium, divers have been given the opportunity to explore
one of the last pristine environments on earth, the Mergui Archipelago.
Historically, the Archipelago had been an important area for
trade between the east and the west. But after World War Two with
the major political changes that took place in Burma and rest
of Southeast Asia, the Archipelago fell into obscurity, resulting
in over 50 years of very little human activity. With over 800
islands, some of the them the size of Singapore and most of them
completely uninhabited, the area has unlimited potential as a
playground for divers, yachties, naturalists, and other pleasure
seekers. Steps have already been taken to preserve the islands,
and the government there seems to be very interested in developing
the area in a positive way.
Inshore,
the islands are lush with vegetation and primary jungle, and contain
some of the last jungle cats and other large mammals to be found
in Southeast Asia. Here the water is not very clear, thus of little
interest to divers. Offshore, the islands are smaller and drier
and lie in deep enough water to afford good visibility. Here the
corals, sea fans, and fish life are similar to that found in Thailand,
but with one major difference; there is an abundance of sharks.
This makes the diving more exciting than in the waters further
south, and is attracting divers looking to dive with these awesome
creatures.
The Burma Banks, located in the southwestern part of the Archipelago,
are a series of sea mounts which rise up from over 300 meters
to just below the surface. Completely underwater, depths average
between 15-22 meters on the flat areas on top, dropping off slowly
on the edges. Diving here requires careful planning as the currents
are often strong and unpredictable. Guided drift dives are the
norm, usually starting on the edge of the banks in 35 meters of
water where divers stare out in the blue looking for large silver
tip sharks. Commonly growing to over two meters in length, these
sharks are full-bodied, fascinating animals easily identified
by the white trailing edges on their pectoral fins and caudal,
or tail fins. Normally quite curious, but not aggressive, these
sharks will closely approach the diver making for incredible photo
opportunities. Other types of sharks are seen at the banks, including
free-swimming nurse sharks, black tips, and the occasional grey
reef, but the silver tips remain the main allure.
The interesting islands to dive are of two types. Some of the
islands like North and South Twin look like the Similan Islands
above and below the surface. Lush soft corals, large sea fans,
huge boulders, and very clear water make the diving interesting
for very experienced divers as well as for intermediate level
divers. Like in Thailand, the best diving is at the tips of the
islands and on underwater pinnacles located several hundred meters
from shore.
Other
islands such as Western Rocky and Black Rock, rise straight out
of the sea and plunge almost straight down. Vegetation is sparse
and beaches are rare or non-existent. These dive sites feature
caves going through the islands, vertical walls, very interesting
rocky outcroppings and deep canyons. Some of the caves are full
of lobsters and are popular places for very large nurse sharks
- five meters or longer - to make their home. The sharks one sees
inshore at the islands are different from the sharks at the banks.
Grey reef sharks, powerful and beautiful and a little bit scary,
are seen often. Known to be aggressive in some waters around the
world, in Burma they are shy and stay for the most part just on
the edge of visibility. However, if the diver pays attention,
he can often be rewarded with a close encounter, a thrilling experience.
Over seven species of sharks have been reported on a single dive
in Burma, including bull sharks, nurse sharks, mako sharks, and
one of the most beautiful sharks I've ever seen, the spinner shark:
If you're Australian, you'd call it a black whaler. These ivory
coloured sharks, with pointy sleek snouts, grow to at least two
meters, and are completely devoid of markings except for a small
black dot on their caudal fin. Fast swimmers, they almost appear
hyperactive as they come out of nowhere and approach divers very
closely. This behaviour doesn't feel aggressive, and they are
not displaying, yet it is an interesting emotion to have a shark
swim straight at you very quickly and swerve away at the last
minute!
The Mergui Archipelago is only just being explored, and many
new dive sites will undoubtedly be discovered over the next few
years. It's an exciting time for those of us who love the Andaman
Sea as the possibilities are virtually unlimited. Although the
type of diving you find there is not for everyone, those divers
looking for close shark encounters and the thrill of diving in
strong currents will be in heaven.
