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Thailand and Burma's Dive Sites
By John Williams, Photographs by Ashley, J.
Boyd
 Thailand's
great diving has long been kept somewhat of a secret from the
world. Residents of Southeast Asia and those more adventurous
divers from Europe and North America however, long ago discovered
the wondrous attractions that dwell in our undersea Kingdom. Thailand
is blessed with two bountiful seas, the Gulf of Thailand in the
east and the Andaman Sea -- part of the eastern Indian Ocean --
in the west. Thailand's territory stretches from the eastern border
with Cambodia, to the western border with Burma, and then south
to Malaysia. The riches that these oceans behold are a delight
to those of us that have had the pleasure to dive here. Furthermore,
the Kingdom is blessed with a remarkable history and culture,
friendly natives who offer friendly service, beautiful national
parks, a wide range of accommodation possibilities at every price
level and some of the most delicious and extraordinary food and
exotic tropical fruits in the world.
Often referred to as the "Land of a Thousand Smiles,"
Thailand is a joyous country in which to travel. One of the first
Thai phrases travellers learn is mai pen rai which literally
translates to "it is nothing." It also is used
in the same ways that "never mind" or "that's OK"
are used in English. However, mai pen rai is more than
that -- it is almost a philosophy that teaches one to hide problems
and keep one's "public face" smiling and happy. For
the visitor this attitude creates a feeling of burdens lifted.
It makes you feel satisfied, content and cheerful. While exploring
the country you'll feel carefree, light-hearted and safe -- you'll
feel mai pen rai. Is it any wonder so many of us expatriates
have decided to stay, or any wonder that people visit Thailand
time and time again?
Thailand offers the visiting diver diverse undersea experiences
along with an unbelievable amount of topside recreation. It's
the perfect place for a diving holiday. World-class diving, heavenly
tropical islands and immaculate white sand beaches await. With
water visibility often exceeding 30 meters, an average ocean temperature
of around 28º C, and uncommonly calm sea conditions, Thailand
has some of the most comfortable and safe diving environments
found anywhere in the world.
 Every
year more and more words are written describing the diverse marine
life that prowl the depths of Thailand's oceans and every year
more and more divers visit the country. There are three reasons
for this: First, new destinations such as the Burma
Banks, the Mergui Archipelago,
and the Andaman Islands in the
Andaman Sea; and Koh Tao in the Gulf and Koh Chang near the Cambodian
border have been made more accessible to a wider variety of visitors.
Second, Thailand's infrastructure has vastly improved making it
easier to communicate with the people who offer the diving, the
dive centre owners. Third, the diving boats, diving resorts, diving
operations and diving staff have improved their services and amenities
so greatly that they now cater to even the most discerning diver.
Diving takes place in three general areas: Pattaya, near the
capital of Thailand, Bangkok; the southern islands of the Gulf
of Thailand; and the two triangles of diving in the Andaman Sea
on the west coast of Thailand's isthmus. The pages that follow
will describe these areas in detail and will give all of you an
idea of what to expect when planning a dive trip here.
Northern Liveaboard Destinations
To the northwest of the island of Phuket lie the most popular,
famous and best-loved dive sites in Thailand. The Similan
Islands, nine islands of stunning beauty and dazzling
marine life, are visited by many liveaboard boats from Phuket.
The reasons the area has become so famous are unlimited diving
in warm, clear water at one of over 25 dive sites, and mild, comfortable
sea conditions.
Approximately 180 kilometres to the northwest of the Similan
Islands lie the relatively unexplored Mergui
Archipelago and the Burma
Banks, a group of underwater mountains rising from depths
of over 350 meters to just below the surface. Close encounters
with large silver tip and nurse sharks, the thrill of soaring
over the tops of underwater plateaus pushed by strong currents,
and large schools of pelagic fish have made these banks celebrated
world-wide.
Three hundred fifty kilometres further to the northwest are the
newly opened Andaman Islands,
a vast array of islands running north to south in the Indian Ocean.
Diving possibilities are endless and only just being explored.
You'll be hearing more and more about these islands in years to
come.
Richelieu Rock completes
our triangle, back near the border of Burma. This tiny pinnacle
is one of the best places in the world to consistently swim with
that gentle giant the whale shark. Seen here over 60 percent of
the time, these amazing animals grow to over 15 meters in length.
Southern Liveaboard Destinations
 Beginning
in Phuket, we travel east to the popular day-trip spots of Shark
Point and Koh Phi Phi
which offer stunning collections of soft corals. Also, the area
is famous for frequent sightings of the docile leopard shark that
grows to over two meters in length. The remarkable landscape and
casual shore-life of Koh Phi Phi attract thousands of visitors
every year.
Moving south we discover unpopulated, unspoiled islands covered
with tropical jungle lapped by clear blue water, and offshore
pinnacles like Hin Daeng with
vertical drop-offs of over 60 meters. Whale sharks, dazzling fish
and healthy, spectacular coral growth are just a sampling of the
diving possibilities that await you.
Day-dive Destination
One-day trips take us to Shark Point,
Anemone Reef, and the Phi Phi Island
group which all lie to the east of Phuket Island. Great soft coral,
leopard sharks, and nice walls are things not be missed. Also,
the topside scenery is stunning.
We can visit the paradise islands of Koh
Racha Yai and Noi located just to the south of Phuket.
Exciting drift dives, great visibility and superb hard coral growth
characterise these two islands.
The Bottom Line
Environmentally, Thailand's diving fraternity has been a leader
in coral reef protection in Southeast Asia. Many of Thailand's
best dive sites have become protected under law. Over the past
ten years, I personally have seen major improvements in the quality
of diving at almost all regions around the country. While other
areas around Southeast Asia and the rest of the world have suffered
major degradation of their reefs, Thailand's government and its
dive centres have instigated sound policies in controlling damage
to the coral and fish populations. These policies have included
educating people regarding the destruction of reefs by dynamite,
mooring projects in the Similans, Koh Racha, Koh Phi Phi, Koh
Samui and Koh Tao, and a strict hands-off policy for divers enjoying
our undersea treasures.
As long as this positive trend continues, diving in Thailand's
seas will bring pleasure, enjoyment and thrills to many people-and
hopefully to their children and grandchildren as well-for years
to come. You'll find Thailand's waters, islands, and culture full
of life, full of wonder, and full of surprises.
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