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Isan - Overview
One of the oldest regions in the country, Isan or (Esan)
has dinosaur fossils, Bronze age artifacts, impressive thousand
year old Khmer temples, and national parks full of wildlife.
Covering almost one third of the country, Esan sits on an old
plateau at the beginning of the mountain range that extends into
Laos, Burma (Myanmar) and China. One of the most rural, traditional
and densely populated regions, Esan also has some of the largest
national parks in the country. Thailand's first national park
at Khao Yai (gateway to the north-east) has a huge range of wildlife
and offers excellent visitor facilities, trekking and basic accommodation.
Bordered by Laos and Cambodia, the north east reflects Khymer
and Lao influences which can be seen in the well preserved temples
and sculptures, ancient traditions and dialects. The north-east
is viewed as a very traditional part of Thailand with old customs
still continuing in fairs and festivals found nowhere else in
the country. These include the colourful Bun Bang Fai (rocket
festival) at Yasothon, the Candle Procession and the Wax Castle
Festival at Ubon Ratchathani.
The region is also known for its distinctive handicrafts, like
Matmee silk, its beautifully woven wickerwork and baskets, earthenware
and specialist food items like sausages, Mu Yong (shredded pork)
What To Do
The north east is a region for simply travelling. It offers a
different side of Thailand and apart from Khao Yai doesn't compare
with the north for adventure opportunities. Instead, go sightseeing,
shop for locally made handicrafts, visit temples, take a boat
trip down the Mekong river for an insight into the local lifestyle
along the riverbanks......
Places to Go
Khao Yai National Park
One of the Northeast’s most popular tourist attractions.
Khao Yai National Park in the southern part of the north east
is only 2 - 2.30 hours by car from Bangkok. "The gateway
to the Northeast" is home to a huge diversity of wildlife,
from birds and reptiles, to elephants, buffalo, and deer. It's
a popular park with both local and overseas tourists and camping
in the picturesque landscape of mountain range and rich forest
is popular. Several short and long tracks are provided for walkers,
while cyclists can enjoy their own bicycle trails past waterfalls
and through forest. Gets busy at the weekends.
Historical Sites and Parks
Ban Chiang Historical Site
In 1966, an amateur archaeologist discovered pottery and artifacts
around the small village of Ban Chiang, 60km from the city of
Udon Thani. The artifacts turned out
to be the remains of a civilization thousands of years old, indicating
that Ban Chiang had once been a prosperous and sophisticated society
- pre-dating settlements in Mesopotamia and China by six hundred
years. The discovery that Bronze-age Ban Chiang had developed
rice farming, domesticated work animals, used bronze casting and
produced intricate art and pottery earlier than any other community
at the time, has forced archaeologists to re-examine their previous
understanding, not only the development of Southeast Asian prehistory.
Artifacts and information is available at two local museums. Excavation
sites at nearby Wat Pho Si Nai reveal the of the settlement, but
the mystery of where they came from, and why they abandoned their
home in about 250 BC still remains.
Prasad Hin Phanom Rung
Built between the eleventh and twelfth centuries, during the height
of the Khmer empire, Phanom Rung was an important link on the
pilgrimage road from Phimai, near Korat, to Angkor Wat, 240km
to the east. Highly revered by the Thai people, the multi-million
baht restoration took 17-years, and was completed in 1988.
The temple is now at the centre of the spacious Phanom Rung Historical
Park. The remarkable stone relief carvings, images and sculptures
which depict events from the Hindu creation story, adorn the many
walls and porticos still standing. One of most beautiful sculptures
at Phanom Rung is the Phra Narai Lintel. Stolen in the 1960's
by art robbers, it was found in the Art Institute of Chicago in
1976 by Professor Diskul of Silpakorn University, Bangkok. In
early 1988, with the restoration nearing completion, Thailand
launched a massive diplomatic and media offensive to have the
lintel returned. Newspapers printed vitriolic editorials condemning
the Art Institute, Thais and Americans demonstrated on its steps,
and the famous Thai rock group Carabou had a hit with "Take
back Michael Jackson -Give us back Phra Narai." The Narai
lintel was returned in 1989 and is now back above its entranceway,
looking east, towards Angkor.
Khon Kaen
 The
commercial and political centre of northeastern Thailand, Khon
Kaen is home to the largest university in the this north eastern
region. Once the quiet capital of one of the poorest provinces,
it has undergone dramatic change with modern development and is
typical of the developing face of Thailand. Old blends with the
new as water buffalo weave in and out of traffic alongside BMW's
and Mercedes; traditional food vendors selling barbecued chicken
and sticky rice, set up outside western fast food outlets. Notable
for its hospitable people, folk music, elephants, distinctive
spicy food and handicrafts, and special whisky, it's bustling
and busy but still traditional. It's also a good starting point
for excursions into Laos and Cambodia.
Attractions include the Phu Kao - Phu Phan Kham National
Park - 56 km northwest of Khon Khen, which offers trekking,
and camping. Phu Wiang National Park - 90 km northwest
of Khon Kaen, which contains several archaeological sites and
dinosaur fossils in addition to scenic mountains, valleys, caves,
and waterfalls. Tortoise Village - 50 km south of Khon
Kaen in Mancha Khiri District, has approximately 2,000 tortoises
living in the main Shrine and the surrounding area.
Silk Fair held in late November/early December. The
fair lasts 7 days and includes a Miss Silk procession, a silk
products exhibition and Isan country music and dance.
Tourism promotion over the last decade has resulted in additions
to the basic accommodation which now include better deluxe and
tourist class hotels operated by both Thai and international hotel
groups. You can either fly direct from Bangkok or take the overnight
train. (See getting there)
Nakorn Ratchisima
(Korat)
Gateway to the North-eastern Region, Nakorn Rachisima (known
locally as Korat) is situated on a plateau, about 260 kilometres
northeast of Bangkok. Korat is a good base to explore the many
Khmer ruins, temples and historical sites found around this area.
Wat Khao Chan Ngam, 58 kilometres from Korat is famous for the
pre-historic colour paintings on a huge rock depicting human and
animal figures about 3,000 years old. Phra Non Sema, located 4
kilometres from Sung Noen District, is a reclining Buddha image
made of red sandstone - the largest in Thailand and possibly the
oldest (dated around 1,200 BC) Prasat Hin Phimai is the
largest sandstone sanctuary in Thailand almost situated in the
centre of the ancient city of Phimai. The Sanctuary has been magnificently
restored and is now a National Historical Park.
Phimai Boat Racing
Over a hundred years old, this annual festival, now takes
place during Loy Kratong Festival (October or November) and draws
thousands of tourists both from Korat and neighboring provinces.
Ubon Rachathani
For a unique experience of the Mekong lifestyle take a cruise
down the great Mekhong river. Several are available which include
visits to the caves at Pha Taem which contain paintings on the
A round trip takes about 2 hours.
Best time: November to April. ln the rainy season the water level
is high and cruising is not recommended.
One of the highlights of Ubon is the grand candle
festival that takes place in late July. Local craftsmen stage
a procession through the city streets with gigantic, intricately
carved candles of every description, some the size of cars, some
shaped as animals, people and images from Thai mythology. These
painstakingly created sculptures are later burned in the Buddha's
honour. The candle festival, Ngan Hae Thian, lasts for five days
and includes concerts, beauty contests and parades.
A short distance to the east of the city, along the Moon River,
another wax recreation can be found. The village of Ban Kwan Sai
is one of the few places where craftsmen still use the so-called
"lost wax" method to mould brass and bronzeware. The
village also produces gongs and other musical instruments for
classical Thai music.
At the confluence of the Moon and Mekhong rivers, at Chong Chiam,
the different coloured waters meet and produce remarkable effects.
Locally this is known as the "Two-Coloured River or Mae Nam
Song Si.
Udon Thani
Ban Chiang National Museum
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Ban Chiang contains ancient artifacts;
tools, utensils, pottery and jewellery, indicating a Bronze Age
civilization flourishing around 5,000 to 7,000 years ago. The
distinctive pottery, with its fingerprint whorl decorations, is
believed to be the world's oldest decorative earthenware. Many
of the artifacts were found in a burial mound. Evidence of primitive
bronze casting technology was also discovered in the area. (See
Historical sites and parks)
Phu Phra Bat Historical Park
An extensive area at bottom of the Phu-Pan mountain range which
contains caves, natural rock formations, rock terraces. Located
some 68 kilometers northwest of the provincial capital, in Amphoe
Ban Phu, via Highway no. 2021 and 2348.
Nong Khai
 Located
on the banks of the Mekong river, in the north eastern region,
Nong Khai offers a gateway to neighbouring Laos. Once a sleepy
border town, the opening of Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge has transformed
it into one of the busiest commercial centres in the region. Yet,
it still retains its peaceful, riverside charms and French influences.
The people are friendly, the pace of life is still slow, and there
are plenty of hotels and places to pick up gifts and Laotian handicrafts.
Outside the city is a wealth of beautiful scenery with forests
and small, local towns dotted along the banks of Mekong River.
Attractions Go for a trip along the river in a local
river boat, or visit the strange sculpture gardens at Sala Kaeo
Koo, or Wat Khaek 5km east of the town. Check out the Indochina
Market off Rim Klong Road (Mekong Riverside Road) the focal point
of the lively, local trade between the Thais and Laotians. Merchandise
sold here includes clothing, pots and pans, food products, mortars,
and other knick-knacks.
Surin
 Over
the last few years, Surin has gained fame for the Elephant Roundup
- an annual event held in November, when the Suay tribe demonstrate
their abilities to capture, train and raise elephants. The festival
attracts thousands of visitors and includes demonstrations of
how elephants are trained, a tug-of-war between elephant and men,
an elephant soccer match, elephant dances, a parade, elephants
at war, and cultural performances. The Suays are believed to have
immigrated to Thailand from Central Asia in the early 9th century
and were the first people to use elephants for construction work,
particularly in building Khmer temples.
Surin is famous for its many Khmer temple sites, and the wide
variety of handicrafts and silk produced by the locals. The Kawao
Sinrin Village has beautiful locally woven silk products and also
makes silver and golden beads, used for decoration. The neighboring
villages of Ban Choke, Ban Sador, and Ban Chanrom also produce
beautiful silver products, woven silk fabrics, and basketry sold
to shops and visitors.
City attractions include Sri Khorn Phum Sanctuary (Ban
Rangaa Sanctuary) a 13th century, Khmer-style temple site and
Ban Pluang Stone Sanctuary, with intricate stone carvings, dating
back to the 12th-13th century.
Yasothon
Considered the nation’s smallest province, it gained its
autonomy in 1972 after separating from the large province of Ubon
Ratchathani. Yasothon is well known for its high-quality jasmine
rice but particularly for the annual, colourful Rocket
Festival, is held during the second weekend of May. The
festival, originally staged to promote unity and ask holy spirits
for seasonal rain, has now become a national event with a grand
rocket procession, local dances and the launching of huge rockets
at the Phaya Thaen Park. There's an enormous fireworks display
and the rockets are fired on the second day of the festival. It's
noisy, smoky and lots of fun!
How to Get to the
North East
By Plane: Thai Airways Domestic operate flights to the
northeastern cities of Nakhon Ratchasima, (Korat) Sakon Nakhon,
Khon Kaen, Udon Thani and Ubon Ratchathani.
By Road: Isan is easily accessible, with four major highways
connecting it with other regions. Inter-provincial transportation
networks are also among the best and most convenient in the country.
Air-conditioned and non-airconditioned buses leave from the north-eastern
bus terminal at Talat Mo Chit, Phahonyothin Road, Bangkok Tel
: 2720299, 2720295.
By Train: Express trains leave from Bangkok's main railway
station at Hua Lamphong, daily to Nakhon Ratchasima (Korat) Buri
Ram, Surin, Sri Sa Ket, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nong Khai and Ubon
Ratchathani.
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