Well-maintained
roads carrying little traffic, enveloped by extraordinary scenery
en-route to view a marvel of nature and a wonder of man’s
aesthetic accomplishment.
That’s us, coasting to Krabi. It’s the rainy season,
but the sky is blue; some fluffy clouds lumber by, unthreateningly.
Don’t tell the “good-weather” tourists, for then
we would not have the road almost exclusively to ourselves! Despite
the fact that there are not too many roads to confuse the navigator,
as detailed a map as possible will save possible frustration.
A useful tip is to memorize the names of the places you intend
to visit and to have a friend write them down in Thai, so that,
with a little assistance from people along the way, you will competently
reach your scenically captivating goals. We ar e heading for Wat
Bang Riang, just beyond Thup Put, an awe inspiring hilltop temple.
Then we will move on to the Krabi area, probably close to the
beautiful Ao Nang Bay for the night before heading off to discover
the striking caves deep in the mangroves of Tham Phee Huato.
When
hiring a car for this journey, the only practical way to do it;
be sure to hire from one of the well-known, worldwide chains such
as Avis or Budget. Although they may be a little more expensive
than the guy on the corner; you are assured of full insurance
and recovery in the event of a problem. With mind at rest because
you have a reliable, comprehensively insured car, also now put
your mind into cruise mode; for where we will take you during
the next two days there will be no race to win, no schedule to
meet. You will have ample time, so enjoy. “Sabai, sabai”,
as the Thais would say, “take it easy”, you might travel
this road only once.
Cruise towards Sarasin Bridge, passing through the newly reconstructed
village of Thalang, where road-widening activities during the
past couple of years has meant that all buildings, often brick
by brick, have been demolished and faithfully reconstructed some
twenty metres back from the road. Soon after the village you will
begin to notice that the traffic flow has become lighter and so
it will remain until your return tomorrow.
Exiting
Phuket Island on the lower Sarasin Bridge we see the serene harbour
of Yacht Haven with many white sticks of masts reaching to the
still blue sky, even the ambling clouds have wandered away. You
will see small fishing boats at anchor under the bridge whilst
a lone fisherman casts his line from its crest, not really caring
whether he catches anything, simply content to be there. Immediately
after the bridge you will see numerous roadside stalls selling
appetizing large red crabs and small mountains of pineapples,
both at Phuket-beating prices. We want to purchase, but where
to keep them until our return? Regretfully, we coast onwards.
Forking right onto the A2 (4) in the direction of Phang Nga, we
are not tempted to deviate further right to follow the signs luring
us toward James Bond Island. We’ve heard the stories of a
beauty spoiled by tramping tourists, not for us today.
Our route to the temple in the sky at Bang Riang (don’t
take the turning to Krabi, rather head for Phang Nga town) takes
us through the clean well-managed town of Phang Nga before rising
up the hill to luxuriate in the flourishing greenery backdropped
by the peerless splendour of unique limestone monoliths rising
pillar-like from the earth. The road, encapsulated in dense plants
and trees is a little twisting, but remember “sabai, sabai”
and take it easy. Time and life is on our side. Sit back, stop
for photo shoots and enjoy this scenery which is unique in Thailand,
unique in the world. Descending into Thup Put, a main road joins
us to the right, which, presumably, would have been the road we
could have taken, signposted to Krabi. We were thankful we had
chosen the small diversion. Almost immediately on our left we
see a sign directing us to Wat Bang Riang, our primary destination
of this first day of our adventure.
This supremely scenic temple was sponsored by the King of Thailand
and although it has not been in place for many years, gives us
the impression that it has always been there, watching tenderly
over the surrounding countryside. The Temple contains many images
of the Lord Buddha and sits squarely in absolute and dazzling
isolation on the summit of one of the highest hills in the region,
encompassing views of great depth and beauty. It is a radiant
cornucopia of opulence and colour, further heightened by a colossal
golden sitting Buddha that faces the magnificent temple. Further
around the hillside, looking down into the valley, is one of the
largest white and gold female figures in Southern Thailand. Everywhere
harmony, serenity and peace girdle us. A space of limitless horizons.
Soak in this calmness for a while; there is no hurry; “sabai,
sabai”.
Down
to earth literally and figuratively finds us back in Thup Put
town trying to spot something to eat. We discovered one stall
come restaurant with a selection of lukewarm rice, spicy chicken,
nondescript pork and many smiling faces. It would be enough to
sustain us until our evening meal.
Returning to the A2 we coasted through Nanua, enveloped by coconut
trees and the ubiquitous, although not indigenous, rubber-tree
plantations reaching to touch the wondrous pillars of limestone.
This is the scenery you view from your aeroplane when descending
into or flying out of Phuket. As wonderful as it then seems, there
is no substitute to being actually within it, encompassed by it.
Through the small town of Ao Luek we drove. It will be our return
destination tomorrow as we seek its mysterious caves amongst the
mangroves. The approach to Krabi is along an excellent, straight
and well-maintained road, a delight for the driver and passengers
alike. We have travelled some 200 kilometres since leaving Phuket
town and enter the somewhat quainter and quieter Krabi; although
we can see, even now, that it is fast preparing for its own influx
of tourists. For the moment the graceful and weakly flowing klong
priding itself with well-manicured gardened river banks, washes
down to the Andaman Sea; perhaps it will ever thus remain.
We retrace our steps a little then head south on the 4202 to
Ao Nang bay, where we intend to stay the night. An unwelcome shock
awaits us. The beautiful Ao Nang beach has become a building site!
The entire beachfront is being rebuilt to accommodate a new sea
wall and pedestrian walkway. Unfortunate for those booking a holiday
today, their trek across rubble and past gigantic cranes to the
beach being nothing less than tortuous, but perhaps, for those
visiting in the high season, progress will have been made. We
couldn’t but reflect, however, that we were probably witnessing
a mini Patong rising from the mud.
We
took to the road again, wondering where to stay the night, our
original plan scuppered. Fortunately, within a few kilometres
we saw a sign directing us to The Andaman Holiday Resort. As evening
was slowly threatening to close in, we decided to risk a visit.
We were so very elated we had done so, for we came upon enchanting
chalets, each with a private rooftop terrace, a few steps from
a glorious beach. We rapidly grabbed gin and tonics from the gracious
hostess at the quaint sunset bar and, sitting on the rocks at
the extreme end of the beach, water dancing at our feet, we watched
the lustrous russet sunset kiss the hills of Phang Nga. O K, so
I didn’t want to say we were in “Paradise”, it’s
just a little trite, - but if we weren’t then I simply don’t
know what qualifies. No more to be said, words are not adequate.
The following day we watched as the highly motivated team, from
all departments of the hotel, worked together to construct a new
pathway for their guests. As it is the low season, the management
of the hotel wisely retains the loyalty of their staff by keeping
them employed in projects that will enhance the appearance of
the hotel in the high season. The teamwork certainly impressed
us and they seemed to be having fun! High tide was at 11.a.m.
and the beach disappeared, so we decided to take the cue and get
back onto the road once more. It had been a delightful moment
in our lives, an oasis in a bustling world.
We coasted for 20 kilometres after leaving the hotel, rejoined
the A2 in the direction of Phuket, signposted at 173 kilometres
distant. At the Ao Luek traffic lights we turned left from the
main road, through the town, past the police station on our left.
Almost three kilometres from the police station we took a right
turn then the first left to Tham Phee Huato. Soon we reached the
sea food restaurant at the water’s edge, where we boarded
our long-tail boat for the caves deep in the mangrove swamp. The
jetty is well constructed and the long-tail boat well-maintained
and skippered by an ever smiling “captain”.
The cool endlessness of the mangrove swamp was a welcome relief
from the closer confines of the car. We passed canoeists and other
long-tail boats out exploring, but the balmy sway of mangrove
branch against composed water soon lulled us into placidity. Exiting
the somewhat unstable craft we ascended a few steps into the cavern’s
mouth. We drew breath and waited for the monsters to appear. The
rock formations of stalactites and stalagmites allow the imagination
to run absolute riot. We could see elephants and Buddhas, snakes
and skulls, dragons and monsters, beautiful women and ghouls.
The cave paintings of six-fingered hands, horned monsters and
shrimps are reputedly over 5,000 years old. What tales could they
tell! As we look from inside the cave - known colloquially as
“The Skull Cave”, we gaze through two enormous dead
eyes and a fiercely gaping mouth to the completely overwhelming
vista of amazing Phang Nga bay. Majestic in its dimensions, power
and beauty.
Back in the cave we are smitten by an uncanny resemblance of
cathedral-like architecture surrounding us; arched supports and
rounded pillars, pews and candelabra. Reluctantly, but fulfilled,
we stepped back into our age-old craft and remained silent for
a while. There was nothing more to be said. We were ants in the
size of the universe, in our knowledge, in the passage of time,
- not even ants.
Flanked yet again by proud coconut trees and luxuriant vegetation
we coasted on the final part of our journey along an apparently
little used yet always excellent 415 road. At 34 kilometres from
the pier we rejoined the A2 (4) heading for Phuket. Soon we were
approaching Sarasin Bridge, feeling we were coming “home”.
Remember “sabai, sabai”? Too many people rush the last
stage of their journey. There is no need so to do. We wanted to
wind our two day’s down in a peaceful, non-hurried way, so
we turned left into Boat Lagoon, just before we would inevitably
be consumed by the hurly-burly of frantic Phuket and wound our
way to the far side of the marina. There we stopped at Scampi’s
restaurant, had a quiet coffee and sandwich and reflected in tranquillity
of the two days we had spent amongst the wonders of man and of
nature. We felt very privileged.
